Modern colourful Lolei pagoda

The original, classic Khmer temple Prasat Lolei was placed on an island in an artificial water basin. It was the royal family temple in Hariharalaya. That was the last capital outside what we now recognise as the core Angkor Archaeological Park area around Angkor Thom north of Siem Reap.

The water is gone, but the four old temple towers are still there. Around the old temple grounds, a modern Buddhist monastery was built and still operating.

A modern Wat and Temple
The monks here were quite interested in talking to visitors, seeking information and some of them loved to practice their English. And some German too, come to that.

This photo is from inside the modern Buddhist temple, which is among the heaviest colourful temples I have seen in the Siem Reap area. But it is also very open to the sun light, making it a place of worship filled with light and colours.

I like religious buildings with this sort of character.

Under a hundred meter away, the 1100 years older holy towers connect the old and new continuous cultural history and heritage of Cambodia.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2024/10/10/prasat-lolei/

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Royal honour to the grandparents

Prasat Lolei, ប្រាសាទលលៃ, is the northernmost temple in the old capital of the Khmer empire Hariharalaya. Finished in 893CE, the temple group of four towers was dedicated to Shiva and to members of the royal family by king Yasovarman I.

The two tall brick temple towers were built in honour of the king’s grandparents. The two lower towers were for his parents. King Yasovarman I was not a big fan of his father’s plans of succession. He ended up making his own succession line and legitimized right to the throne via his grandmother’s family.

Last larger Hindu temple built in Hariharalaya
It was originally a temple on an island in a now dried out water reservoir called Indratataka Baray. This was the first Baray of many built by the imperial god kings of Angkor. A temple on an island surrounded by water is probably meant to symbolise Mount Meru, home of the gods in the Hindu pantheon.

Back then it was an Ashram nearby, today there is a modern pagoda and a monastery surrounding the classic site. The interior of the modern pagoda is worth a closer look.

This was the last large temple build by the god kings in Hariharalaya. Yasovarman I later moved the capital to Yaśodharapura centred around Phnom Bakheng, near Angkor Thom/Nokor Thom as it is known today.

https://drzinasia.wordpress.com/2021/04/06/the-modern-prasat-lolei-a-colorful-cultural/

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Sunrise greeting at the first grand temple of the Khmer Empire

Mornings are the most pleasant time to visit Bakong Temple. The large stone temple gets very hot later in the day.
Bakong was the first mountain type of temple architecture design in the Khmer imperial era. It served as a state temple for king Indravarman I, in the first dedicated Khmer imperial capital at Hariharalaya.
Today this is the Roluos Group of temples east of Siem Reap City, Cambodia. Other well-known temples here is Preah Koh and Lolei.

Large Hindu influence
The temple was dedicated to Shiva, and its main consecrated image was a lingam called Sri Indresvara. This step pyramid mountain temple draws inspiration from other large Hindu temples in the region built around the same time. Most notably the fantastic Borobudur temple in Java, outside Yogyakarta.
Bakong temple was the last large construction in Hariharalaya. Indravarman’s son and heir Yasovarman I moved the capital to Phnom Bakheng in the early 900s. Bakheng Hill is just south of what we today call Angkor Thom, the big (capital) city.

For those interested in comparative historical timeline, this temple was finished as a state temple in 881CE. In Norway, the first unification of the kingdom under one superior king established the first larger Nordic kingdom.

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No free lunch.
But the view and surroundings are worth paying for.

Along the road to Tonlé Sap Lake, Cambodia, the rice fields, open farmland and wetland give a splendid outlook. It makes for a very relaxing area to have lunch. Several places along the road have these sheds with straw roofs. They offer cool shade, fresh air, Khmer food and drinks - and hammocks.

In the background to the left here is Phnom Krom, or Kraom/Krom hill. This sacred hill marks the normal highest water mark for the Tonlé Sap north towards Siem Reap at the end of green season.

The east side of the hilltop is a popular spot for younger Khmer and Khmer families for evening picnics. Along the road up to the hilltop, there are plenty of small places offering picnic mats and street food and drinks. The view from those places is partly sunset over Tonle Sap, and mostly peaceful sunset over the farmland and rice fields.

The hill tops temple trio
Phnom Krom is one of the spots near Siem Reap where both sunrise and sunsets can be enjoyed. It has a modern wat, temple and monastery, on the northwest top slope. That is on the right side of the hill in this photo. There are remains of a trio tower temple, Prasat Phnom Krom, in Mebon style at the west top point of the hill.

Prasat Phnom Krom is the southernmost of three hilltop temples built at the same time around year 900 CE. The two others are Phnom Bakheng and Phnom Bok. These three hills form a sacred triangle encapsulating core parts of Angkor Park and Siem Reap city.

It is a 30 minute bike ride out of Siem Reap.

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